Sustainability has become a huge topic of interest in recent years, reaching all aspects of our everyday lives. Of course, some of those are talked about more than others. Fashion, for example, is often demonised as it is known to be one of the worst offenders, being the second largest polluting industry in the world. But we don’t hear a lot about jewellery and yet, there have been many unsustainable practices that the jewellery trade has been guilty of, with both environmental and social impacts. The fact that it is not as talked about means that customers are not properly informed. But we want to change that. Below we’ve compiled a list of a few things to look out for when searching for sustainable jewellery.

Made to order

Choosing jewellery that is made on demand or in small batches avoids over-production and subsequent waste, as well as wasting energy on the jewellery’s storage.

Recycled or repurposed materials

The most eco-friendly materials are the ones that already exist. So rather than making jewellery with newly mined virgin metals, some brands use certified recycled gold or silver, often also called eco silver. Eco silver is not mined from the ground and is produced by repurposing unwanted jewellery, scraps of silver, hospital tools or other items made from silver.

Reworking vintage pieces of jewellery and giving them new life is another great way of repurposing.

Recognised certifications

Don’t just take brands’ word for it as anyone can claim that something is sustainable, ethical, recycled etc. Look for certain certifications as the certifying bodies assess and ensure that producers meet the necessary requirements to receive the certification in question. Some of the reliable and globally recognised jewellery certifications to look out for are:

• SCS is a certification for recycled materials such as silver or gold but this certification actually goes beyond jewellery and covers categories such as plastics, textiles, carpets or wood products

• Fairtrade Certified Gold is the first independent ethical and globally recognised certification system for gold that ensures the metal has been sourced from small-scale miners that have been paid a fair price for their work and product, working in safe and decent conditions, as well as protecting the environment. All gold with the Fairtrade certifications has been sourced from mining sites that meet the Fairtrade Gold Standard and it is traceable back to its original mine.

• Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) is the leading sustainable standard setting body for the jewellery (and watch) industry, working towards the 17 Sustainable Development Goals set by the UN by 2030. To become a member and receive the RJC certified status, brands and suppliers must undergo a third-party evaluation to ensure they meet the organisation’s code of practices which is repeated every 1-3 years.

• London Bullion Market Association (LBMA) is an independent authority on precious metals and their responsible sourcing through the organisation’s Responsible Sourcing Programme. LBMA verifies the legitimacy of supply chains to ensure that transparency is maintained and international ethical standards are met in an effort to avoid financing terrorist groups, human rights abuses and protect the environment.

• The Kimberly Process unites countries around the world along with the jewellery industry and its companies in a fight against the flow of blood diamonds, also called conflict diamonds, which are rough diamonds mined in warzones and sold to finance war efforts of invading armies and warlords.

How can mining be good or bad?

As well as the negative social impacts mining can have as in the case of blood diamonds, mining also has an environmental impact. Mining creates a lot of waste, often containing high quantities of dangerous substances such as heavy metals which can lead to ground water contamination with high levels of mercury or cyanide for example. Tailings, which is the name for the mine mineral waste, are often piled up into large heaps which can cause landslides and slumps if they collapse. Tailings are usually also contaminated by residues of the processing chemicals used to extract precious gems which can be harmful to human health. Mining can also cause soil erosion which leads to the collapse of river banks, destabilising bridges and river siltation, meaning the water gets polluted by granules of soil or clay.

At the same time, mining doesn’t have to be bad as it supports local communities and their livelihoods and if done responsibly and respectfully towards both the environment and the workers. That is why certifying bodies, as the ones listed above, are operating to make sure raw materials are sourced ethically, everything is traceable, workers are paid fairly and are working in safe conditions.

Production

Sustainability is not always so simple and ‘black and white’. Something can be sustainable in one way and harmful at the same time in another way. A great example of this is production. While producing (or even sourcing materials) locally is great from an environmental perspective as it avoid shipping and therefore reduces carbon footprint, producing abroad in poorer developing countries has a great impact on the local economy and supports local communities.

However, small-scale supply chains have proven to be the most sustainable as they are more easily traced and support small local artisans or family-owned workshops for whom these business opportunities make a difference, which cannot be said for large corporations.

Opting for high-quality long-lasting materials is also something to consider.

Eliminating plastics

With plastics polluting our seas and oceans, endangering marine species and threatening food safety and our health, getting rid of plastic wherever possible is definitely a step in the direction of sustainability. Many brands have eliminated plastic from their packaging and instead use recycled and recyclable packaging which is often also biodegradable or reusable. Some brands have even made the commitment to remove plastic from their supply chain altogether.

Donating to charitable causes

Sustainability is not only about the environment and being eco-friendly, ethics is a big part of it. So keep an eye out for what causes and charities brands support and donate to, if any at all. Some brands also plant trees to off-set their carbon footprint.

Diamonds

Diamonds are ‘a girl’s best friend’ and the most sough-after gemstones in the world which comes with a burden of its own. Many want to take advantage of the stone’s popularity, like in the case of the blood diamonds, and some violate human rights and hurt the environment in the process.

Therefore an alternative to natural mined diamonds has been developed. The lab-grown diamonds, also called manmade or aboveground diamonds, are made in a recreated environment in which natural diamonds are formed.

Another sustainable option for diamonds are those sourced from Canadian mines. Known as one of the most ethically and environmentally conscious choices for diamonds, the standards the mines have to meet are set by the Canadian Code of Conduct and the Government of the Northwest Territories. This strict code is designed to protect the Arctic environment and the workers.

If ever in doubt, you can always get in touch with brands by sending a message or an email asking about their sustainability policies or to clarify them if not stated clearly on their website. Brands should always be willing to share these details with you and be open and transparent so that you can make more informed choices as a consumer.

Published 16/07/2021 at baumondi.com