BOUCHRA Jarrar presented her first runway show for Lanvin for PFW SS17 – after having already presented an earlier Resort collection – which she staged against the backdrop of Salon de l‘Hôtel de Ville with a breathtaking ceiling, creating a more intimate atmosphere than usual for a Lanvin show.

Her take on Lanvin is different from the one of the previous creative director, Alber Elbaz –less theatrical and less accessorised. The SS17 was very Jarrar – who also has an eponymous label creating both ready-to-wear and haute couture. Hence asymmetrical pieces, bias=cut tops and sleeveless coats and jackets filled the runway. The couturier also showed some more traditionally Lanvin garments such as beautifully tailored le smoking or crystal-embellished dresses.

The show was carried out predominantly in black and white with an exception of a series of electric blue silk chiffon dresses. Masculine was mixed with feminine here and the focus on the different materials used – leather biker jackets, satin tuxedo or feather-trimmed jackets were paired with delicate see-through floor-sweeping dresses or skirts, some of which were adorned with lace or made as kilts with side buckles.

Suits came pinstriped with thin neckties and flowers pinned to the lapels, worn with floor-length tunics unbuttoned halfway through to be able to show some attitude, walking confidently with one hand in the pocket. As far as prints go, only an occasional zebra print on little snake leather handbags or a jacket and a floral print on a few dresses made their way to the collection.

When it came to accessories, the bejewelled slides and ballet flats were among the show-stopping takeaways from the offering. The floral pins were matched with crystal floral jewellery and chain neckties.

As it was Jarrar’s premier, she made sure to make it star-studded. Hence she showed her collection on some of the greats such as Guinevere Van Seenus, Liu Wen, Sasha Pivovarova, Arizona Muse and Karlie Kloss closing the show.

Images courtesy of Gillian McVey

Published 29/09/2016 at theglassmagazine.com