SIMPLE. Wearable. Powerful. Those are the key words with which we could describe Phoebe Philo’s AW17 collection for Céline. As Philo is against press releases and refuses to give interviews post-show, we are all left in the dark as to where her inspiration came from. She wants the clothes to speak for themselves and so we listened.

The clothes were made for real life women, no fuss but still being cool. So a long fur coat was worn with a T-shirt and simple slim fit black trousers pulled over pointy shoes and a big black asymmetric hobo bag on a wide strap. Everything was functional, hence orange leather tote bags, giving the quite dimly hued collection a pop of colour, were extra large for storing all the women’s necessities and trench coats and black tailored coats with big lapels and broad shoulders, either straight or fitted around the waist for a more feminine effect, were seen throughout the show.

For the more special occasion looks, neo-classical silhouette was the shape of the season at Céline which corresponded with a dress shown on Mica Arganaraz that was a modern re-working – with drawstrings  – of an Ancient Greek toga as neo-classicism was inspired by this period. A pattern with an Ancient Greek motif of muses by the sea – surrounded by trees surrounding – bedecked shirt dresses and trousers worn with them or under skirts.

The beauty was in the details however, and in the accessories: two-toned leather sock boots reaching high up the legs worn with midi-dresses with long sleeves and dropped shoulders; pendants with gold letters; and big blankets which models carried by hand to perhaps wrap themselves in, if necessary.

Images courtesy of Karla Otto

Published 06/03/2017 at theglassmagazine.com