IT’S finally here. The long-awaited debut collection for AW17 for men and women designed by Raf Simons in partnership with Pieter Mulier, Simons’ right hand for many years, for Calvin Klein was presented this Friday during New York Fashion Week.

As predicted after the recent redesign of the brand’s logo which is now more similar to the original, Simons went back to the brand’s roots and was inspired by America and its symbols. And it’s surely no coincidence that this collection was produced and showed in the wake of the recent US presidential election and inauguration.

“It reflects the environment. All of these different people within different styles and dress codes. It’s the future, the past, Art Deco, the city, the American Wes. All of these things and none of these things. Not one era, not one thing, not one look. It is the coming together of different characters and different individuals, just like America itself. It is the unique beauty and emotion of America,” says Simons.

Hence, both southern and business power-dressing both in naturals and bold colour blocking made its way into the show. The southern style was interpreted into cowboy boots paired with button-ups and polo necks underneath or full blue denim, alternatively leather looks.

The men’s looks mirrored the women’s which had a gender-fluid effect on the collection. There was a lot of skin on show, be it skin-coloured completely see-through nylon tops, at times with long knitted puffy sleeves, both for men and women. Ladylike dresses exposed a bit of underboob and were worn with bomber jackets.

For more contrast, coats, like the yellow fur number worn by Julia Nobis, and delicate feather dresses had a transparent plastic “protection” with matching plastic open stilettos.

The collection was presented within an artwork taking over the whole room which is another one of Simons’ signature touches. This artwork was created by artist Sterling Ruby who has collaborated with Simons before on his AW14 collection for his eponymous menswear brand. This is the first part of three which will be unveiled gradually – the second was unveiled already the following day, however, part three won’t be released until this May.

Images courtesy of MODUS Publicity

Published 12/02/2017 at theglassmagazine.com